An Ultimate Guide To Ama Dablam Expedition

Today we will unlock all the knowledge of how you should be prepared before your Ama Dablam expedition. Although the mountain is not the highest among its own peers at 7000m, being on top of Ama Dablam is by no means an easy feat. It is a serious discipline that requires ice and rock climbing skills. It is nicknamed the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” mainly because of its steep slopes and sharp ridges.

This mountain is situated in the Koshi province of eastern Nepal. It soars to 6,813 m and is known for its breathtaking vistas and challenging climbing routes. The Silver Hut, a scientific team headed by Sir Edmund Hillary became the first group to reach the summit of the mountain, thereby paving the way for others to climb.

The standard route to the summit is the southwest ridge. Climbers should have previous climbing experience or high-altitude trekking experience for this expedition. You need to be well-trained in both rock and ice climbing, as well as in navigating through snow-covered slopes. Basic mountaineering skills like fixing ropes, using an ice axe, and crampons is a must for this expedition

However, in the midst of all that confronts her, Ama Dablam remains intriguing. The climbers do not only love to live through the sport with the chills and thrills that come with it, but they are also treated to the spectacular views of the Himalayas which consist of many peaks ranging from Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse among others.

The pyramid shape of the Ama Dablam and its difficult routes are the reason for climbers from all over the world to come here and try it. Moreover, this trek is not only about the mountains, but you will also get a chance to experience Nepal’s rich culture and history.

You will be amazed by the warm hospitality of the Sherpa people who are quite unique in their way of life. This is no doubt you will have an amazing experience that will remain in your memories for forever.

Highlights of Ama Dablam expedition

• Enjoy sightseeing in Kathmandu
• Enjoy scenic flights to and from Lukla
• Marvel at the stunning Himalayan views, including Mt. Everest, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, and Mt. Cho Oyu
• Visit iconic Sherpa villages such as Namche Bazaar
• Learn climbing techniques at the base of Mt. Ama Dablam
• Experience staying in camps along the mountain ridges
• Summit the impressive 6,812m/22,349ft Mt. Ama Dablam

Best Time to Go on the Ama Dablam Expedition

Before embarking on this beautiful journey of the Ama Dablam, you should understand the climbing season. Weather plays a crucial role in successful climbing. There are four seasons in Nepal, i.e. Spring, Autumn, winter, and monsoon. Climbing in each season will give you a different experience, and each season comes with its own challenges. The best time means stable weather conditions where the climber can enjoy the magnificent view of the mountains and the surrounding peaks without having much climbing difficulties.

Even though climbing is possible throughout the year, the ideal time will be during the months of spring and autumn.

Along with the best time, having the proper Acclimatization days is necessary. Acclimatization will help you to adjust to the higher altitude. Also, it helps you to prevent the risk of altitude sickness. So read the package well to know if there are enough acclimatization days or not.

Read here to know more about the best time for the Ama Dablam Expedition.

Best Time for Ama Dablam Expedition

Food and accommodation

Trekking agencies will provide accommodation in hotels and tea houses. After arriving in Kathmandu, you will stay in the standard hotel. The hotel will provide you with a complimentary breakfast, and you need to pay for the meal on your own. Facilities such as internet, hot showers, and charging will be included in the package.

While you are staying in the tea house, the room and facilities will be more basic than in a city area. You may need to share accommodation, with open dining facilities and shared squat-type washrooms. While there are options for both vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals, the variety may not be as extensive as what you’d find in urban restaurants. 

Three meals(breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. For the hot shower facilities, charging, and wifi, you need to pay extra bucks, which will not be included in the package.

We will provide and arrange good quality tents and kitchen utensils for you. Also, there will be a professional chef who will cook delicious meals for you. Three meals will be provided in the tent. You will receive high-altitude packaged meals that are nutritious and warm to support you during the summit expedition.

Preparing for the Ama Dablam Expedition

Preparation is the key to success. Similarly, you need to plan well before heading to this expedition. There are certain things that you should know about this expedition so that your journey will be comfortable and easier.

Travel Visa

A travel visa is required when you are traveling to any country. Tourists can easily get an on-arrival visa at Tribhuvan International Airport. After submitting the required document, getting an arrival visa is a straightforward process.

• For 15 days, it will cost you 30$
• For 30 days, it will cost you 50$
• For 90 days, it will cost you 125$

Don’t miss out on reading: Ama Dablam Expedition Cost

Insurance 

One of the crucial aspects of the preparation is having travel insurance. Travel insurance will help you prepare yourself for any unforeseen challenges that may arise along the journey. Having the right insurance will help to free your mind and also offer practical support in the face of adversity.

Having travel insurance is a smart decision. But before having the insurance, make sure it covers everything like medical emergencies, evacuation needs, or unforeseen circumstances. You cannot get travel insurance here in Nepal, and travel insurance is mandatory to have a climbing permit. So you need to have travel insurance before leaving your home country.

Securing Permits and Documentation

The first thing that you need to have is a climbing permit. This permit is provided by the Nepal Mountaineering Association of Nepal(NMA). Without having this permit, it is not possible to begin your journey. The cost of the climbing permit depends upon the season you will visit. 

• The cost of a climbing permit in the spring season costs you 400$
• The cost of a climbing permit in autumn costs you 400$
• The cost of a climbing permit in winter costs you 200$
• The cost of a climbing permit in summer/monsoon costs you 200$

After having a climbing permit, you need to have two local permit

1. The TIMS Card ( which will cost you 20$)
2. Sagarmatha National Park Permit( which will cost you 28$)

Choosing the Right Gear and Equipment

Deciding on the perfect time of the year for your Ama Dablam expedition is the first step towards a successful climb, but choosing the appropriate gear and equipment is just as important since the conditions that you’re likely to encounter will be specific to the season.

From the insulated layers and the waterproof outerwear to the sturdy boots and the specialized climbing equipment, the right gear is not only going to increase your performance but also will protect you from the elements. Proper preparation means that you’re ready to face whatever challenges the environment offers at any moment.

Selecting a Reliable Expedition Company

There are thousands of trekking agencies inside Nepal. While choosing the package online, you need to know whether the trekking agency has a trekking license from the government or not. 

Registered trekking agencies manage all logistics of your journey, ranging from getting permits and booking transfers to hiring seasoned guides and porters. Their knowledge enables them to create customized and well-structured itineraries attuned to your interests and to supervise operations during the entire trip.

Read here to learn more about how to prepare for the Ama Dablam expedition

How to prepare for the Ama Dablam expedition

How do you maintain Physical Fitness?

Climbing the Ama Dablam is physically and mentally challenging. So the climbers must be feet and completely healthy before they join this expedition. 

Cardiovascular exercise: For this, you can join the Gym and do step-ups, Hack squats, Walking lunges, Hip rolls, Kettlebell deadliftCardio, Glute bridges, Lift exercises, Side plank with hip dip exercises, Squat curls, overhead press exercises, StairMaster, etc.

Yoga: By joining the yoga class, you can do Suryanamaskar/Sun Salutations and Malasana, Downward dog, Uttanasana/ Standing Forward Bend, Baddhakon Aasana (butterfly pose), Low lunge / Anjaneyasana, Triangle/ Trikonasana, Sarvangasana & Halasana, Inversions. 

Aerobic exercise: For this aerobic exercise, you can walk, jog, swim, bike, jump rope, etc.

Altitude Acclimatization Strategies: For this, do regular hiking or high-altitude trekking so that you can know about altitude sickness and the acclimatization process. For the high altitude trekking in Nepal, you can join the Annapurna Circuit trek, Manaslu Circuit trek, Everest High Passes trek, and Kanchenjunga trek.

Nutrition and Hydration: The perfect body and mind are not possible without having a proper nutritious and balanced diet food. You should eat healthy food and avoid eating junk food. Also, keeping a hydrated body all the time is equally important for maintaining good health and preventing altitude sickness.

Essential Items to Pack for the Ama Dablam Expedition

If you are a new climber and don’t know what to pack, then don’t worry. Below is the complete list. Please be advised that these items will not be included in the package; therefore, we kindly ask that you arrange for their freestanding management. 

Fortunately, all these goods are readily available here in Kathmandu for local purchase. Also, if there are pieces of stuff you wish to rent, we will help you find them so that you don’t have to worry about them.

Climbing Gear 

• Ascender
• Alpine Climbing Harness
• Crampons
• Carabiners
• Descenders/belay devices
• Ice Axe
• Ice Screw
• Helmet
• Rope
• Tape Sling

Clothing

When you get ready to scale the rocky summits of the mountains, be sure to dress properly. Branded clothing that you can rely on to keep you warm and dry on the climb and make the experience enjoyable should always be your partner as you set out on this adventure.

Head

• Sun Hat
• lightweight hat 
• Head Lamp
• Outdoor headlamp (water-resistant preferred) for hand-free lighting
• Glacier Sunglasses
• High-quality sunglasses
• Bandana or Head Scarf
• Ski Goggle
• High-quality goggles

Hand Gear

• Liner Gloves
• Lightweight synthetic gloves for hand protection
• Wind stopper Fleece Gloves
• Gloves with insulating material
• Expedition Mittens
• Expedition-rated mittens for the warmness of hand

Upper Body

• Long-sleeve shirt and Tshirt
• Fleece wind-stopper jacket or pullover at higher altitude
• Waterproof shell jacket
• High-quality outdoor Jacket (waterproof)
• High quality Down Jacket
• High-quality and medium-weight down-fill jacket 
• Short-sleeve shirt
• half-sleeve innerwear with vapor-wicking capabilities

Lower Body

• Lightweight pants (two pairs recommended)
• Waterproof shell pants (two pairs recommended)
• Fleece or woolen trousers (two pairs recommended)
• Hiking shorts and trousers (two pair recommended)

Feet

• Lightweight inner socks (3-4 pairs recommended)
• Wool socks (while sleeping at night time in a teahouse/tent)
• Cotton socks (2 pairs recommended)
• Gaiters

Personal Stuff

• Sleeping bag: 0 degrees Fahrenheit rated 
• Inflatable sleeping pad: A full-length inflatable sleeping pad is recommended
• Water bottle: one-liter capacity bottle 
• Small Travel Bag: simple and lightweight bag
• Expedition Duffel Bag
• Small padlocks
• Pee Bottle
• Pee funnel for women
• Trekking Poles
• Swiss army knife
• Toiletry bag
• Cigarette lighter
• Disposable rubbish sacks
• Trekking watch/ alarm clock
• Digital Camera
• Binoculars (optional)

Medical

• Personal First Aid Kit
• Water purification tablets
• Anti-mosquito cream
• Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox or Acetazolamide
• Earplugs
• Anti-diarrhea pills 
• Blister repair kit
• Antibiotics for chest infection
• Sun protection cream
• Extra prescription glasses/contact lens
• One small bottle of cough and cold medicine.
• One small bottle of anti-headache pills.
• Personal prescription medications

Toiletries

• One small synthetic towel
• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• Soap
• Deodorants
• Anti-bacterial Hand wash
• Hand Wipes
• Hand sanitizer gel
• Body Moisturizer
• Tissue Paper
• Nail Clipper

Travel Luxuries

• Books
• Notebook/Pen
• Journal
• Camera
• Map
• Compass / GPS
• Travel Games (Chess, playing cards)
• Bath suit
• Solar Charger

Itinerary Outline for the Ama Dablam Expedition

Let’s see what the 25-day standard itinerary from the High Route Adventure looks like.

Note: The expedition of the Ama Dablam can be completed in three to four weeks, depending on your chosen itinerary. If the itinerary doesn’t match your interests, we can also change it.

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Important Things to Know

About Safety Precautions and Challenges

Safety must be a priority, particularly when moving through high-altitude and difficult routes. Familiarity with rocky areas is a must, the same as basic skills of mountaineering. Besides, these skills not only increase your confidence but also lower the chances of taking risks on rugged terrains. Thus, safety measures are still essential during such undertakings.

Safety tips for the Amadablam expedition

• Choose the ideal time for climbing this expedition.
• Always wear protective gear and the right clothing.
• Follow the safety guidelines provided by your professional Guide.
• Follow the rules while walking in a conservation or preservation area in Nepal.
• Be a vigilante all the time while walking.
• Be prepared in advance for sudden climatic conditions.
• Carry enough cash
• Secure Nepal travel insurance covering medical, evacuation, trip cancellations, and belongings for safe trekking at high altitudes.
• Respect the culture and tradition.
• Book through the Reliable Expedition Company

About Altitude Sickness

The expedition journey of Ama Dablam will take you to the impressive altitude of 6812m. Reaching at such altitude is not a joke. Walking at such heights, the main thing that climbers need to face is altitude sickness. 

Altitude sickness can happen to anyone while trekking at high altitude. The primary form of altitude sickness is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). If left untreated or worsens, AMS can progress to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE).

Symptoms of AMS

• Headache
• Nausea and vomiting
• Loss of appetite
• Fatigue
• Malaise 
• Trouble sleeping
• Dizziness or lightheadedness

It’s preventive measures

• A slower ascent is ideal for preventing altitude sickness
• Take rest days to acclimate. 
• Sleep at a lower altitude if possible.
• Carry medications like acetazolamide or nifedipine can prevent altitude sickness and treat it.
• Don’t smoke or drink alcohol
• Stay hydrated all the time

Also worth reading: How Difficult Is the Ama Dablam Expedition?

About Safe Drinking Water

On the trail of the Ama Dablam expedition, you can find numerous water taps and natural sources of water like rivers, streams, glaciers, and ponds. Even though the water looks crystal clear, some unseen bacteria might exist. Therefore, we suggest you drink only after boiling or using water purification tablets. Avoid the use of plastic bottles and always carry reusable water bottles.

About Wifi, Shower and Electricity

While staying in the tea house, they will provide you with wifi, a hot shower, and electricity. You can use these facilities after paying the extra bucks. But while staying in the tent, you will not have facilities for hot showers. For the internet, it’s better to buy the local sim from the airport for the mobile internet. You can charge your electric stuff using a generator or solar panel while you’re in the tent. And you can only have a hot shower in the tea house.

Conclusion

The Ama Dablam expedition is a thrilling challenge that involves a mix of technical climbing skills and spectacular scenic views of the Himalayan region. Climbers face these steep ridges and icy slopes to push their limits and enrich their lives with unforgettable experiences. 

Beyond the physical exercise, the expedition provides the cultural experience of the Sherpa people and the rich side of Nepal, which, with warmth and hospitality, makes the amazing view of the world’s tallest peaks even better.

I hope this blog helps you to prepare for the Ama Dablam expedition. If you have any questions or want to know more about this expedition, then feel free to contact us. You can also book directly from our website.