The Putha Hiunchuli Expedition is an adventure trip to a magnificent mountain named Putha Hiunchuli, which is located in the far-western part of Nepal and is 7,246 meters (23,773 feet) in altitude. Putha Hiunchuli has a Nepali name, which means “snowy summit Putha”. It is also called Putha by local folks of Dolpo and Rukum, meaning mountain in their language. They think that the peak is closely tied with the indigenous culture and traditions, and hence a difficult climb, but a culturally significant one.
Though Putha Hiunchuli is sometimes called Dhaulagiri VI, it is a name that gives the impression of another sub-peak of the Dhaulagiri range. Putha Hiunchuli is, in fact, a separate and isolated mountain in the far-western section of the Dhauligiri region. It possesses its base camp, special route approaches, and distinctive mode of climbing, which makes it a distinct peak with a different identity from the main peak of Dhaulagiri.
Putha Hiunchuli has become quite popular among the mountaineers as one of the most convenient 7,000-meter peaks in Nepal. It is a mountain that is in high demand by many climbers who use it as a training area before they can go out to conquer difficult 8,000-meter climbs.
Compared to other Himalayan mountains like Mt. Everest, which is crowded, Putha Hiunchuli has been mostly left untouched, and thus, it has been termed a virgin peak with untouched and clean beauty. This renders it a mountain explorer’s dream to experience adventure and to have a sense of isolation in the far Himalayas.
Country: Nepal
Hiunchuli Altitude: 7,246 m / 23,772 ft
First Ascent: 1954 by Jimmy Roberts & Ang Nyima Sherpa
Duration: 31–35 Days (depending on weather & acclimatization)
Group Size: 2–10 People per group
Coordinates: 28°44′50″N / 83°08′55″E
Location: Dhaulagiri Himal Range, Dolpa Region
Airport: Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure : From Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Peu Difficile (PD – Moderate Difficulty)
Transportation: Domestic flight (Kathmandu–Nepalgunj–Juphal)
Best Season: Spring (April–May) & Autumn (September–October)
Major Activity: Trekking & Mountaineering
Included: Scenic flight to Juphal & exploration of Dolpo region
Culture: Buddhist & Dolpo traditions
Mode of Travel: Tea House & Camping
Climbing Route: North Face via Northeast Ridge (Standard Route)
Optional Adventure: Skiing & Snowboarding at high-altitude slopes (pre-booking required)
Himalayan Views: Dhaulagiri (I–VI), Annapurna, Churen Himal, Manaslu, Machhapuchhre (Fishtail)Putha Hiunchuli is not a busy mountain, and each expedition seems to be exclusive and rare. Having a smaller number of climbers on this peak allows you to have a personal and original experience that is not crowded with the commercial routes. To climb to its summit is that peculiar and thrilling spirit of pioneering, the glory of being one of those few who have stood on this untouched Himalayan giant. Along the way, you’ll be surrounded by pristine landscapes, rich with unique flora and fauna that remain largely undisturbed by mass tourism.
Climbing Putha Hiunchuli includes walking along glaciers, snowy ridges, and ice, which is a good mix of difficulty and satisfaction. It is not the most technical of the 7,000-meter peaks, but it requires prior experience in high altitude, good shape and stamina of the mind. This renders it the best choice among climbers who are planning to travel to 8,000 meters. The achievement of the peak cannot be compared to any other feeling; the fact that you have climbed one of the least visited peaks in Nepal, but the most rewarding peaks, is incomparable to any other feeling.
The approach to the base camp of Putha Hiunchuli is no less a part of the memory than the climbing itself. Hiking west Nepal, you will walk along isolated paths, cross through the traditional villages, and get acquainted with various ethnic groups that have not abandoned their ancient traditions and lifestyles. This experience is not commercialised like the usual trekking paths, but rather a pure, raw adventure, such that cultural experience is not only authentic but extremely immersive.
Even on the first day, the landscape continues to vary – beginning with a rich green foothill before progressing to alpine meadows, and then to the dry and high altitude areas of the Dhaulagiri region. The views of the Dhaulagiri range and the concealed valleys and expansive wilderness make the panorama magnificent, seen even on the top of Putha Hiunchuli into Tibet. To the photographers and nature-loving people, each and every step in this journey will present a photo-worthy sight.
| Year | Event | Details |
| 1954 | First Ascent | A British expedition led by Lt. Col. William H. Murray attempted the summit but was unsuccessful due to severe weather conditions and technical challenges. |
| 1955 | Successful Ascent | Major Jimmy Roberts led a British expedition that successfully summited Putha Hiunchuli. The team included climbers such as Henry Osmaston and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama. |
| 2011 | Notable Ascents | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, a renowned Austrian climber, made history with the first female ascent of Putha Hiunchuli. |
Here is a table for the required permits that you will need for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
| Permit Type | Issuing Authority | Purpose | Fees / Notes |
| Climbing Permit | Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) | Grants official permission for foreign climbers to ascend Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) | Spring: $500Autumn: $250Summer: $125 |
| Restricted Area Permit (RAP) | Department of Immigration, Nepal | Required for trekking and climbing in the Dolpo region, a restricted area under Nepalese law | Typically arranged through a registered trekking agency |
| Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit | National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) | Grants access to the Shey Phoksundo National Park, part of the trekking route to Putha Hiunchuli | Often included in the overall trekking package |
Note: All the require climbing permit for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition will be arranged and cost will be included in the package when you book the package with us.
The cost of the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition depends upon several factors such as group size, duration, travel season and level of services included. On average, the cost of the expedition ranges from USD 5,600 to USD 12,000 per person. Prices can vary further depending on whether the package includes summit services, base camp-only arrangements, or a fully customised expedition.
The best time to climb the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition is during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During this season, the weather remains mostly stable, favourable, with clear skies and perfect climbing conditions. Some expert climbers also do this expedition in the winter season. We suggest our climber check the weather forecast and weather conditions before heading for the expedition. Also, climbers should be aware of avalanches and sudden weather changes.
Travellers note: We suggest you obtain the local SIM ( Ncell or NTC) from the airport to connect with us and your family during the journey. Please make sure to settle the remaining balance of the expedition before starting your trip.
Travellers note: If you have enough time on this day, you can visit Bageshwori Temple (approx. 4–5 km, 15 minutes), Dhamboji Bazaar (approx. 3–4 km, 10–12 minutes), New Road Market & Central Nepalgunj (approx. 3 km, 10 minutes), Ganeshpur Area (approx. 2–3 km, 8–10 minutes), or Mini Zoo & Park (approx. 5 km, 15 minutes).
Traveller's note: On the rest day, don't do heavy exercise; instead, you can perform yoga. Take enough rest and follow acclimatisation tips.
Airport Pick-up & Drop-off
Accommodation During Trek & Base Camp
Meals
Permits & Fees
Transportation
Liaison Officer
Base Camp Staff & Services
Climbing Sherpa Services
High Camp Support
Communication & Safety
Tax & Service Charges
International Flights
Nepal Visa Fee
Personal Climbing Gear
Travel & Personal Insurance
Personal Expenses
Tips & Gratitude
Backup Oxygen (if used)
Satellite Phone Calls
Medical Check-ups
Putha Hiunchuli is 7246 meters (23773 feet) higher, with much less oxygen in the atmosphere, which makes it more likely to develop altitude sickness. Climbers should be familiar with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Cerebral Oedema (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPE). The strategy of gradual acclimatisation must be used, and it involves rest days and rotation climbs (climb high, sleep low), a 30+ day expedition. Extreme altitude causes fatigue, lack of appetite, and sleeping disorders in the body, which makes the acclimatisation process very important in an attempt to enjoy a safe uphill experience.
Putha Hiunchuli is regarded as a moderate summit, and generally it can be defined as a high-altitude trekking peak, not technical. Ropes are needed to traverse crevasses such as the Konaban Glacier. Certain parts have steep snow and ice slopes (3045 o ), which necessitate the use of crampons, ice axes, and sometimes fixed ropes, particularly along the summit ridge. Finding the route in fresh snow or whiteouts may be a challenge, and that is why expert guides are necessary.
Putha Hiunchuli needs excellent cardiovascular fitness, good legs, core, and upper body power, and long hours of stamina to carry packs. Long-distance cardio, strength training, and multi-day hikes with an increase in altitude should be part of the training. Previous experience on 5,000/6,000m peaks is strongly advisable since the weeks-long trip to the summit is a test of stamina and mental resilience.
Extreme temperatures, heavy snow and whiteouts, high winds, and sudden weather changes are faced by climbers. Isolation of the mountain leads to long distance walk to base camp (10-14 days) and a lack of access to emergency medical services. It is also prone to avalanches, especially following a fall of fresh snow or on hot days. These challenges require firm logistical planning and self-sufficiency.
On Putha Hiunchuli, mental strength is a determinant. Climbers should be patient, persevere, and learn to work as a team, having to endure discomfort, isolation, and psychological stress. Making correct decisions under stress, knowing when to push or turn back, and having prior expedition experience can significantly influence success and safety on this remote Himalayan peak.
For the successful expedition, it is necessary to prepare, so let’s see how you can prepare yourself for this adventurous journey in the Himalayas.
Budget Tip: Start saving early; fundraising may help.
Accommodation during the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition is a combination of camping and teahouses. Climbers on the approach trek are normally accommodated in village teahouses or lodges with basic rooms and simple beds, meals, and minimal facilities. After departing from villages and proceeding to Base Camp and advanced camps, accommodation is converted to tented camping. At Base Camp, there are bigger dining and sleeping tents set up by the expedition team, and bigger, lightweight tents are used at advanced camps for climbers and guides. It is a mix that allows for both cultural immersion in villages and complete support in remote mountain regions.
Food and beverages on the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition are planned to keep the climbers energetic, hydrated, and healthy at high altitudes. At the trek up to Base Camp, meals are served in teahouses, with the usual Nepali cuisine such as dal bhat (rice, lentils, and vegetables), noodles, soups, and tea. At Base Camp and advanced camps, and while on the mountain, the expedition. Our supportive team will offer you basic food items like rice, pasta, potatoes, soups, and occasional meat, as well as snacks for added energy. Remember, hydration is key, so to remain hydrated, we will arrange oiled or filtered water, tea, coffee, and soup. At advance altitude, we also suggest you carry some high-energy snack items like energy bars, nuts and chocolate to add stamina on climbing days.
All the participants who are heading for the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition must carry functional travel insurance with them. To reach the height of 7,246m, there is a risk of altitude sickness, accidents, changing and erratic weather. In an emergency, rescue or helicopter evacuation is tremendously expensive, so having insurance is a must.
Your insurance policy should cover all the high altitude risks up to 8,000m, including emergency medical care, evacuation, trip cancellation, and lost luggage. You can buy the insurance package from your home country or buy the insurance from a reputable company.
At High Route Adventure, we will provide highly qualified, fully trained guides, Sherpas, and porter support to ensure your Putha Hiunchuli Expedition remains safe and successful. Our expert climbing guides are experienced in high-altitude mountaineering, navigating the routes, and responding to emergencies. You will get top leadership throughout the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition.
Our Sherpa climbing guide, with their skill and durability, will arrange accommodation in a tea house, tent, and fix the rope and also lead you to pass the technical section safely. In the meantime, our porters will carry your heavy loads so that you climb with less physical burden. With our hardworking staff, you are free to completely indulge in the adventure while enjoying the satisfaction of knowing that every detail is taken care of.
Responsible travel during the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition means you need to protect the fragile Himalayan environment and local communities. Make sure to bring back your waste product with you and follow the Leave No Trace policy. Dispose of waste properly, minimising pollution, and respecting wildlife and natural habitats. While trekking in the village area, please show respect to the local citizens, their culture, traditions, and livelihoods.
You can support the local business, as the economy of the mountain areas directly depends upon tourism. Follow sustainable tourism practices by preserving the beauty and heritage of the Dolpo and Dhaulagiri regions for future climbers.
In order to book the Putha Hiunchuli Expedition, a climber will need to pay a 30 per cent advance payment of the overall price during the booking. The balance that remains is payable prior to the expedition.
Early booking is strongly suggested to find your place since the number of people in a group is restricted to ensure safety and individual attention. After confirming your participation, Highroute Adventure will assist you with everything to know about preparation, gear lists, permits, and logistics.
Here is our contact information if you have queries realted to Putha Hiunchuli Expedition.
To safely navigate snow, ice, and high-altitude terrain, climbers must carry:
High-quality layered clothing is essential for warmth, protection, and comfort:
Items needed for high-altitude camping and trekking:
For safe navigation and documentation:
High-altitude sunlight can be intense:
Essential medicines and first aid for high-altitude trekking:
Additional items to ensure safety, hydration, and convenience:
Note: If you prefer, you can rent climbing gear from rental shops in Thamel. We are happy to assist you with the rental process and recommendations.
