The Ama Dablam Expedition with High Route Adventure is a remarkable mountaineering journey that encapsulates the essence of adventure in the heart of the Himalayas! Ama Dablam, often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” due to its distinctive pyramid shape, offers climbers a challenging yet rewarding ascent. The route to its summit is a test of technical skill, physical endurance, and unwavering determination! Are you ready?
The climb begins at Base Camp, nestled in the shadow of Ama Dablam, at an elevation of approximately 4,600 meters (15,092 feet). From here, climbers embark on an arduous journey that takes them through a series of high-altitude camps. The Advanced Base Camp (ABC), situated at around 5,639 meters (18,500 feet), serves as the launching point for the expedition’s higher reaches.
As climbers ascend, they traverse rocky terrains, negotiate steep ridges, and face the challenges of snow and ice. Camp I, also known as “The Yak Camp,” at about 5,700 meters (18,700 feet), offers the first significant rest stop! From there, they advance to Camp II, or “The Advanced Camp,” perched at approximately 6,000 meters (19,685 feet) on a narrow snow ridge. It’s here that climbers intensify their acclimatisation efforts and prepare for the more demanding sections ahead.
High Route Adventure’s expert climbing guides continue with you to Camp III, known as “The Summit Camp,” at around 6,480 meters (21,260 feet). This camp is strategically placed just below Ama Dablam’s southwest ridge, making it the final camp before the summit push!
The ascent to the summit, standing tall at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), is a significant highlight of the Ama Dablam expedition. Climbers must navigate technical rock and ice sections, employing their skills and determination to reach the pinnacle of Ama Dablam’s majestic Himalayan pyramid!
To conquer Ama Dablam, one must be equipped with a comprehensive arsenal of gear and equipment tailored to the requirements of high-altitude mountaineering in Nepal! In contrast to standard hiking gear, this expedition demands specialised tools and gear.
Crampons with precision-engineered spikes provide essential traction on icy surfaces, while harnesses with safety features offer peace of mind on tricky rock faces. Ice axes, designed for balance and power, are indispensable for navigating steep slopes and ice formations. Furthermore, altitude-resistant clothing, constructed with cutting-edge materials, ensures climbers remain warm and safe in the ever-changing Himalayan weather.
These tools are not mere accessories; they are lifelines, enabling climbers to conquer the unforgiving terrain of Ama Dablam. Climbers who embark on this expedition are advised to have some prior experience. Proficiency in rock and ice climbing is a benefit, as is the ability to utilise ropes and anchors!
Mt Ama Dablam is renowned for its formidable challenges. Its distinctive pyramid shape presents a complex medley of rock, snow, and ice obstacles. The exposed ridges and sheer rock faces demand a level of technical skill. With the help of High Route Adventure, you’ll navigate steep sections with finesse, employing a blend of rock and ice climbing techniques.
The thin air at high altitudes adds another layer of complexity, requiring climbers to acclimatise gradually and make calculated decisions to ensure their safety and success.
The timing of the expedition is an important consideration! The optimal seasons for the Mt Ama Dablam expedition are autumn/fall (October-November) and spring (April-May). During these months, the weather tends to be more stable, with clear skies and manageable temperatures.
Embarking on the climb during other times of the year exposes climbers to harsh and unpredictable weather conditions, significantly increasing the risk associated with the ascent. Timing, therefore, is a factor that can make the difference between a successful summit and a perilous retreat!
Read more: Best Time for the Ama Dablam ExpeditionThe journey begins at the base camp, situated at approximately 4,600 meters (15,092 feet) above sea level. This is the starting point for climbers and serves as the hub for organising equipment, acclimatisation, and initial briefings. High Route Adventure sets up our main camp here. It also provides a stunning vantage point for viewing Ama Dablam’s majestic pyramid shape!
After training at base camp, climbers ascend to the advanced base camp, located at around 5,400 meters (17,716 feet). This camp is strategically positioned closer to the mountain and serves as a launch pad for further ascents. Climbers typically spend several days here, acclimatising to the increasing altitude and preparing for the more challenging sections ahead.
Often referred to as “The Yak Camp,” it is situated at approximately 5,700 meters (18,700 feet) above sea level. It is the first high camp along the route, marking a significant step in the ascent. Climbers establish this camp on a rocky terrace and use it as a resting point during their climb. From here, the route becomes steeper and more technical.
Called “The Advanced Camp,” Camp II is positioned at approximately 6,000 meters (19,685 feet). It is a critical waypoint in the climb and is nestled on a narrow snow ridge. Climbers may spend several nights here, adjusting to the altitude and preparing for the challenging sections ahead. Camp II offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.
Also known as “The Summit Camp,” it is situated at around 6,480 meters (21,260 feet) above sea level. This camp is strategically located just below the mountain’s southwest ridge. It is the final camp before the summit push and requires a technical climb to reach. Climbers typically set off from here in the early hours of the morning for their summit attempt.
The ultimate goal of the expedition is to reach the summit of Ama Dablam, which stands at an impressive 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) above sea level. The summit push is the most challenging part of the climb, often involving technical rock and ice sections. Success at the summit is a testament to the climber’s skill, determination, and preparation!
Traveler’s note: Thamel houses most trekking shops, restaurants, hotels, and boutique handicraft shops. Here you’ll find anything and everything you need for a successful summit climb up Mt Ama a Dablam!
Traveler’s note: For dinner options, we recommend one of the local restaurants, a staple dish of Nepal is the traditional dumpling called MoMo, absolutely delicious. Thamel has also a lot of options for international cuisine for you to choose from. For any recommendations, we’ll be happy to provide you.
Traveler’s note: Also known as one of the most unique airports in the world, the landing and take-offs from Lukla are heart-racing!
Traveler’s note: The Sagarmatha or Everest National Park entry point is Monjo village, hence the permit check post! While traversing around Larja Dobhan you’ll have a chance to see your first views of Mt Everest from the viewpoint!
Traveler’s note: Did you know that Namche Bazaar from a distance looks like a horseshoe? Here you can find many restaurants, pharmacies, and even luxury resorts!
Traveler’s note: Also used to trek towards the Lakes of Gokyo in the western region of Everest Phortse also serves as a crossroad for trekkers.
Traveler’s note: While entering the Imja Valley today it is common to see lots of yak herds. The next day we have our second and last acclimatization day.
Traveler’s note: Did you know that from tomorrow we veer off the Everest Base Camp trail, and head east towards the foot of Mt Ama Dablam? It officially marks the last day of trekking and the start of the expedition. The views from Chukung Ri are incredible, on clear days you get to see a great part of the entire Everest region’s mountain peaks such as Island Peak, Nuptse, etc!
Traveler’s note: Pay good attention during the climbing class, the next day we’ll hold a practice climb towards the Advance Base Camp and back. Take a good rest as tomorrow you’ll set your first steps on the massif Mt Ama Dablam!
Traveler’s note: Today’s section is more about acclimatization and getting a feel for the route and technical sections. Take your time with today’s climb and take in the view as you ascend higher up the mountain.
Traveler’s note: Our expert High Route Adventure climbing team takes the day to teach you invaluable techniques, pay attention as these can greatly help you overcome the obstacles lying in wait as we try to reach further up the mountain! During this day our team will also set up camp in Advance Base Camp anticipating your arrival.
During the Ama Dablam ascent, you will be spending extended time above an altitude of 3,500 meters. Due to the reduced level of oxygen in the air at high altitude, the risk of altitude sickness remains significant. The early symptoms of altitude sickness(AMS), such as Headache, Nausea, Vomiting, Dizziness or lightheadedness can be cured by can usually be relieved by resting and descending to a lower altitude. However, if symptoms become severe, immediate descent and medical attention are essential. We should recognize the early symptoms of altitude sickness and treat it in time without being negligence. The advance form of altitude sickness, which is HACE and HAPE, can be life-threatening.
Essential Tips to Reduce Altitude Sickness on the Ama Dablam Expedition
While staying in tea houses along the trekking route, High Route Adventure will provide three meals a day—breakfast, lunch, and dinner—ensuring you are well-fueled for the climb.
Once at Ama Dablam Base Camp and higher camps, there are no tea houses so that you will stay in expedition tents. Our dedicated expedition cook will prepare all meals, providing nutritious and high-energy food to support your climb.
Here are the meals that you can expect on the Ama Dablam Expedition
You will spend your night in the tea house and the tent during the Ama Dablam Expedition. Here are what features you can get in the tea house and tent:
Tea house:
Tent:
Climbing Ama Dablam is best during the spring and autumn seasons due to favourable trekking conditions. The climbing journey becomes more adventurous, and it is safer to trek during these times.
During your Ama Dablam Expedition, High Route Adventure will provide a dedicated team to ensure your climb is safe, well-organized, and enjoyable:
Climbing at the high altitude area of Mount Ama Dablam means there are certain types of risk associated. You need to deal with the high altitude areas, rugged landscapes, walking in the technical area of the base camp, weather changes, and some unpredicted natural disasters that can occur.
So to prepare for emergency medical evacuation, health safety, and to be secure and tension-free, having travel insurance is a must for every climber. Before purchasing travel insurance, make sure it covers essential things such as helicopter evacuation, medical, flight cancellation, etc. Also, keep in mind that you cannot have travel insurance here in Nepal, so before leaving your home country, make sure to have it.
To begin your Ama Dablam Expedition, you must have a climbing permit, which is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). This permit cannot be obtained individually, so High Route Adventure will handle the process and secure it for you, ensuring all official requirements are met before your climb.
Here is the list of permits you will need for the Ama Dablam Expedition:
After arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) in Nepal, you will be warmly welcomed by a High Route Adventure representative. You will then be transferred to your hotel in a private vehicle. For departure, our staff will ensure you reach the airport three hours before your scheduled flight. All ground transportation mentioned in the Ama Dablam Expedition itinerary is included in the package, providing a comfortable and hassle-free experience from start to finish.
Everything You Need to Pack for a Safe and Successful Climb
Climbing Ama Dablam (6,812m) is both rewarding and demanding. The right gear can make all the difference in your comfort, safety, and summit success. Here's a carefully crafted checklist of equipment you’ll need for the full expedition—from base camp to the summit.
Base Layers (Next to Skin):
Mid Layers (Insulation):
Outer Layers (Wind/Water Protection):
High-Altitude Summit Gear:
